Archive for the ‘New’ Category

Dog Fences Dog Fences Are A Great Way To

Gemma | December 2nd, 2005
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Dog Fences Dog Fences Are A Great Way To Keep Your Puppy Happy Outdoors

If you have the luxury of owning a backyard piece of property then your puppy or adult dog deserves the freedom of being able to roam outdoors in the yard without the risk of wandering off. Of course this entails creating a fenced enclosure so that he can run free and spend plenty of time outside.

The type of fenced area you choose can be that of a full yard enclosure like most common homes have, or if there is no fence and the yard is open, you can create a smaller fence with four sides and a small gate. This type of fenced setup will allow your dog to take advantage of his freedom while at the same time benefiting from your company when you are outside handling landscaping tasks. And of course, dogs have the most fun when you play outdoor games with them.

The Cons Of A Fenced Enclosure

Although the benefits of allowing your dog to roam free with fenced borders outside far outweighs the cons, there are a few downsides which you should be aware of. For example, you may be tempted to leave your dog outside in the secured fenced area for a long period of time if you have to leave the house for some reason. This can cause your dog to panic and experience high anxiety levels of stress.

This stress can lead small puppies and dogs to attempt escaping from either climbing the fence or digging through the ground. Never underestimate how far your dog is willing to go when he feels all alone and abandoned. Of course with time and proper conditioning, most dogs can be trusted when left alone. However, you should use caution with small puppies and never leave them alone for too long a time.

Electrical Fences

Electrical fences are definitely popular among many dog owners. You’ll have to decide for yourself if you feel it’s right to keep your dog outside with barriers that can shock him if crossed. Although the dog cannot see these borders, it keeps them enclosed in an area by an underground wire which will shock the animal if he passes over it, due to a specific battery operated collar around his neck.

Electrical dog fences are known to do a great job at keeping a dog or puppy secure, but there are some safety measures in which you need to adhere to due to the nature of the product. Puppies that are too young should not be confined with an electrical fence. Your dog must be no younger than six months old. Also, these fences will not prevent other animals from coming into the enclosed area. This could prove dangerous to your dog. All in all, just use a little common sense with proper training, and your dog should have no problems with an electrical fence.

Dog Fence How To Keep Your Dog From Wandering

Gemma | November 29th, 2005
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Dog Fence How To Keep Your Dog From Wandering Off Outside

When you let your puppy roam free outside on the property, it is essential that you keep the little guy enclosed in some form or fashion. And if you cannot fence the dog inside, then at least leash your dog up. This will prevent him from wandering off and getting hurt by an other animal or a moving vehicle.

If you are in search of purchasing an enclosure such as a dog pen or a tie out, here are a few research tips to help you choose the appropriate security item which would suit your dog and landscape best.

Start by asking your self the following 3 questions:

1. Based on how well you know your dog, what type of personality does he have and how well does he handle being confined? Is he the type of dog that will try to escape knowing that he cannot get past a certain barrier mark?

2. When you have an enclosure put up outside, how do you plan on using it when confining your dog? In other words, will you be by your dog’s side at all times when he is out or do you plan on using the fenced in area or tie out as a way to keep him secure when you’re not at home?

3. Based on your dog’s temperament, are you aware of what type of confinement his personality will allow without creating chaos for your pet? Using a secured lead may create anxiety. A fenced in area that is too small may also be a negative experience for your dog.

Can’t I just train my dog to stay on the property without a security fence or leash?

This is a big mistake. Initially when your young puppy is new to the outside world and is just getting used to the fact that he can play around the yard, letting him loose without any security is a dangerous choice. Your dog may not understand what his boundaries are and end up wandering off into danger or being fatally injured from traffic.

Not only is safety an issue here, but the fact of the matter is that it is virtually impossible to train a puppy to stay on a certain area of land at such a young age, especially if there are other houses, sidewalks, and streets nearby. Yes, some breed types can be trained, but to successfully train a dog to stay within certain confines of your property without a fence or leash takes a specific type of dog temperament.

Death By Flea Collars (3)

Gemma | November 25th, 2005
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Most unnecessary deaths of dogs that occur due to flea collar poisoning are the result of an allergic reaction to the active ingredient. Even if your dog is perfectly well at the time the device placed around his neck, observe your dog closely for the first few days.

If your dog should become ill while wearing a flea collar device, remove it until the reason for the illness can be determined. Leave the device off until the dog is completely recovered.

By observing the following eight precautions, you can use the flea collar to your dog’s best advantage:

1. Buckle the collar securely, but not tightly around his neck. These collars, as well as any collar for that matter, should be worn loosely.

2. When bathing your dog, remove the collar until the dog is completely dry. Never let your dog get wet while wearing a flea-killing device.

3. Animals should never be allowed to chew on flea collars or other flea-killing devices. Keep in mind, if you have more than one dog, they may be tempted to chew at these collars worn by the other dogs.

4. Observe the neck area every few days for signs of irritation and loss of hair. Should these signs occur, remove the collar and allow the area to heal.

5. Do not use such devices on sick or convalescing dogs. If your dog becomes ill while wearing a flea-killing device, remove it at once.

6. Do not use any other pesticide on your dog while a flea collar is being worn.

7. Worming medicines should not be administered to a dog while the dog is wearing a flea-killing device.

8. If you take your dog to a veterinarian for any reason, be sure to advise him that your dog is, or has been, wearing a flea-killing device.

Flea collars, and similar type of pest-killing devices, can serve as an effective aid in preventing the accumulation of fleas and ticks on the family pet. The absence of fleas and ticks can make the warm summer months much happier and healthier for your dog, but, as with any form of medication, simple precautions as outlined by the various manufacturers must be adhered to for maximum effectiveness and complete safety.

Death By Flea Collars (2)

Gemma | November 24th, 2005
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Most packages containing flea collars or other similar-type pest-fighting devices usually carry a printed caution on the front: Do not allow children to play with this collar.

The purchaser is then invited to read the additional precautions printed on the reverse side of the package. Over 50% of the dog owners polled about their knowledge of flea collars admitted that they either did not read the directions, or if they did, simply did not pay much attention to them.

Be Careful

Flea collars should be buckled securely, but not tightly, around the dog’s neck. A collar buckled too tightly will cause greater levels of the active ingredient to be absorbed into the bloodstream of the animal. This condition usually manifests itself by neck irritation, followed by a loss of hair under the collar.

When first placing a flea collar on a dog, the owner should observe the neck area for the first few days and be alert for signs of irritation. If irritation occurs, the collar should be removed immediately.

Additional precautions on most packages point out that each collar is intended as an insecticide generator and is not to be taken internally by man or animals. One might ask who in his right mind would want to eat a flea collar for breakfast. No man in his right mind would, but a dog (especially puppies) might consider such a collar an intriguing chew toy!

Playful puppies enjoy chewing and gnawing on anything, including each other! It is for this reason that manufacturers include the following precaution on each package containing a flea killing device: Animals should not be allowed to chew on this collar

Because the active ingredient used in flea collars is absorbed into the animals’ bloodstream, some animals may show allergic symptoms. Some dogs, like humans, are allergic to certain medications, while others can accept the medications with relative impunity. It is for this reason that each animal wearing such a flea device for the first time be observed closely for any signs of adverse reaction.

If an animal appears lethargic or refuses to eat, you should remove the collar at once. Dogs who have an allergy to these pesticides have been known to die. Such deaths need not occur if the owner takes a few moments to read the directions and properly observe his pet, should any side effects develop.

A dog wearing a flea collar will be more reactive to anesthetics, and a number of anesthetic deaths have been attributed to the use of these devices. The finger of guilt must ultimately be pointed at the dog owner for his failure to observe the precautions as set forth by the manufacturer.

Death By Flea Collars (1)

Gemma | November 21st, 2005
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When I was younger and living in San Diego, California, a mixed breed lab died a painful death which was eventually traced to the flea collar it was wearing.

Years later, in a small town in Texas, a puppy from a litter of 4 died, which was later found to be directly attributed to a flea collar device. The stricken puppy, however, had never worn such a collar he had chewed on one from another house dog.

And in New Jersey, an entire litter of puppies, 6 weeks old, succumbed to what was later determined to be caused from a flea collar. Yet, not one of the puppies in the litter had ever worn such a device.

In each of the above true cases, the attending veterinarian reported that the deaths were needless and could have been prevented if a few simple facts have been known by the owners of those dogs. Moreover, veterinarians agree that literally 100% of the fatalities which do occur as a result of flea killing devices could be prevented.

It is commonly known that heavy infestation of fleas and ticks contribute to death and disease. It is also known that more deaths and sicknesses are caused by fleas and ticks than are caused by flea killing devices. The sad part of it is that no deaths or severe illnesses should ever be attributed to flea collars.

Flea collars and the newer flea control medications can actually prevent deaths and sickness if but a few basic facts are known, and adhered to, by all dog owners.

In a recent poll which questioned a large section of dog owners across the United States, more than 90% believe that their dog’s flea collar merely emitted some kind of protective vapor that was repugnant to fleas and ticks, resulting in the pests dying off, due to the lethal vapor, yet without any repercussions on the dog’s health.

The fact is, the pesticide in any flea collar device doesn’t just seep through the animal’s fur as a protective vapor. Rather, it is absorbed into the bloodstream and metabolized by the liver. This has a strong effect on the animal’s entire system. The active ingredient in such devices is usually dimethyl phosphate. Used according to directions, and in proper quantities, this ingredient is fatal to fleas and ticks.

Serious problems can occur when a dog owner simply places such flea killing devices around their dog’s neck without taking the time to read the accompanying directions. Many times, though the directions are read, they simply are not taken seriously, nor are they followed.

Brushes & Combs: What Is The Best Type Of Grooming

Gemma | November 17th, 2005
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Brushes & Combs: What Is The Best Type Of Grooming Brush To Use On Your Dog?

There are specific brushes and combs to use on dogs, all based according to what you need to accomplish. It’s not too different than when people need a round brush for curling with a blow dryer versus a natural bristle brush for normal dry brushing, etc.

If you do not plan on showing your dog then there is no need to get lost in too many details on the perfect brush. For example you might use: a pin brush or slicker brush for the same purpose or – a curry comb instead of a hound glove.

To better help you make the best choice as to what brush or comb you need to get your dog properly groomed and looking nice, below is a quick-starter guide on all types of brushes and what hair type is best to use them with. All you have to do is choose the right tools that match the individual breed type and hair texture of your dog.

Bristle Brush

This brush has soft and gentle bristles, and are usually made of all-natural material. It is a lot like natural bristled brushes that are sold for people. They result in less electricity in your dog’s hair, whereas nylon will let the static electricity build up within the coat. These brushes distribute natural oil though the hair and smooth out the hair. They are an all purpose type of brush, perfect for any dog, especially the long-haired types.

Slicker Brush

This brush is made up of teeth type bristles that can be very harsh, but they are very close together and are essential for some dog’s coats. The brush readily removes all dead hair from the fur and can remove mats when used properly. These brushes are best for curly haired dogs and long-haired dogs.

Conversely, this is great for a dog that sheds a lot in the house as you can remove lots of hair with the very little effort.

Curry Brush Rubber Types

This is usually an oval-type of brush. It simply puts a polish on the dog’s coat and gets rid of dead hair which will result in far less shedding. At the same time, it does not harm the skin since it has rounded rubber type bristles. This brush is perfect for sensitive skin and smooth-coated dog breeds.

Pin Brush

These brushes are best used on really long and fine-haired breeds, or heavy-coated dogs that have double coats. The purpose of the brush is to remove tangles in the long-haired dog and with wiry coats that are tough, as it helps to give them a good brush out before stripping the hair by hand.

Combs: Fine, Medium & Wide-Toothed

Dogs with silky, soft hair or with fine-to-medium texture needs a fine-to-medium comb. The comb will remove the final remains of tangles and can often help remove flea dirt as well as the fleas themselves. You should use a wide-toothed comb on a coat that is dense and very thick. The purpose is the same – to finally remove all the tangles.

Coat Rake, Mat Comb, or Mat splitter

When you are dealing with mats and tangles use a spray detangler along with one of these tools. This is best used on curly and long-coated dogs.

Hound Glove

As the name suggests, this is a glove that you slip on and use the side covered with natural bristles to brush your dog. Smooth-coated dogs benefit from this as it helps to remove dead hair in an efficient manner, while adding a shine to the coat.

Water Safety: Boating With Your Dog: 5 Safety Tips To

Gemma | November 15th, 2005
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Water Safety: Boating With Your Dog: 5 Safety Tips To Keep Your Trip Fun

Once your dogs gets more and more confident about going in the water by himself, you may try sharing other marine activities that both of you can enjoy. But before heading to the water, whether to go swimming, boating, or playing fetch, it is important to know some basic knowledge and safety measures.

Here are some tips to help you and your dog get the most out of your water experience, while keeping safety paramount:

1. Not all beaches allow dogs. Check the ordinance to make sure that your dog can come along. If you have access to the Internet, you may go online at www.dogfriendly.com to find a list of beaches that allow pets in the United States and Canada.

2. If boating is one of your favorite pastimes and you want to bring your dog with you, take your time when introducing him to this activity. You have to remember that he is used to hard surfaces that are stable and do not move.

Regardless of the size of your boat, whether it is a small canoe, or a large yacht, allow him to get acquainted to your boat while he is on the leash. Also, your dog’s first couple of boat trips should be very short, no longer than an hour or so. This will allow you to get a good sense of his comfortability levels with spending time on a moving surface.

3. When heading out on your boat on a bright, sunny day, ensure that your dog has a shaded area to spend time in when things get too warm. The surface of your boat can become uncomfortably hot underneath the boiling sun, especially during the dead of summer. And your dog’s ears and nose may become sunburned without shade.

4. There is nothing more fun than being out in the middle of the ocean or lake and jumping off the side of your boat for a good swim. If your dog joins you, be sure to pay attention to strong tides, jellyfish, and sea lice.

Sea lice can cause extreme itching and irritation to your dog’s skin. Jellyfish can obviously stink your pet. And when coming back onto the boat, be sure to rinse both you and your dog off with clean water.

5. Last but not least, always bring your own drinking water. Though it may seem more convenient to have your dog drink from the river or lake, it is not a good idea to do so. Slow moving water such as lakes and ponds are sometimes contaminated with bacteria and parasites.

Water Safety: Are You Risking Your Dog’s Life When Playing

Gemma | November 13th, 2005
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Water Safety: Are You Risking Your Dog’s Life When Playing In Water?

If you own a Labrador Retriever, Irish Water Spaniel, or a Portuguese Water Dog, doing some type of water activities is one of the best ways for you and your dog to spend time together. Whether he is playing along the rolling waves of the ocean or fetching a stick in a shallow creek, spending time in the water with your canine buddy is a great way to enjoy the great outdoors.

Make Safety #1

When you and your dog are both paddling in the water, it is very important to think about safety as your number 1 rule. While many dogs can easily plunge into the water like a duck, some canines are a little apprehensive at first and need time to get used to the experience.

Below are 5 tips to ensure that both you and your dog can have a fun and safe time in the water.

1. Before your dog hits the water, make sure that he is healthy and in good condition. Consult with your veterinarian if you have any doubt abouts his health or fitness level.

2. When taking your dog to the water for the first time, do it slowly and go by his pace. This is especially true if he is still a puppy. Never assume that, just because hes a Labrador Retriever, that he will naturally know how to swim and will automatically tread the water safely.

3. Pick a warm, shallow body of water, one that will be easy for your first-timer to maneuver through. Take him to the edge of the water and let him explore at his own comfort levels. Do not splash him or drag him to the water before you are absolutely sure that hes ready. Give him a few minutes to get used to this new experience. Forcing your dog to go into the water before he is ready will just scare him off and lessen the chance of him trying again.

4. As he gets more curious, try taking him to the water by going in first and call him at the same time. Lure him with a treat or throw a toy into the water (making sure it is at a short distance and within his depth). Eventually, he will feel more confident about going further out, especially when he knows that you are having fun.

5. Before taking your dog to a large body of water, such as the ocean or a deep river, it would be wise to gear him up with a canine life jacket. This is particularly important if he is still new to swimming and/or if he gets too excited while playing in the water. Make sure that the life jacket fits him properly and let him get used to having it on while swimming before going deeper into the water.

Showing Your Dog: Training Tips Part 3

Gemma | November 10th, 2005
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The next step is to teach your dog to submit to being checked by a complete stranger. Start with a friend who knows the dog; while you hold him in his show pose have your friend touch the dog all over beginning with his head, just as the judge would. This includes parting the dogs lips so the bite can be seen, and picking up the feet one at a time and dropping them back into position. Ask your friend to go slowly and thoroughly and to speak softly to your dog so as not to scare him.

Practice this more often with people your dog knows and trusts, and reward him after each examination. When he calmly accepts the examination, ask someone who is a total stranger to your dog and do the same.

Attending a handling class for dogs is particularly helpful in this situation. However, if you dont have access to one, people admiring your dog in a public place like a park will often go over him if you ask them. The idea is to get the dog used to remaining still while hes in his show pose and strangers are examining him.

Another most important part of showing your dog is the gaiting in the ring. You will be asked to gait your dog around the ring with the rest of the class. You will also be required to engage in individual gaiting in specified patterns. There are six main gaiting patterns. You need to learn and practice them with your dog. You must spend as much time practicing gaiting as you do stacking in the show pose.

It is also important to find the gaiting speed that makes your dog look best. Some dogs extend more and look better at a fast speed, while others lose all grace and symmetry at a fast pace and should be gaited slowly. Ask other dog show competitors or breed experts how they think your dog moves best, and then have someone else move your dog for you at various speeds and evaluate the gaiting speed yourself. Movement is very important in the show ring. A properly constructed dog should move well while a poorly constructed dog cannot.

If your dog is gaiting too slowly in the ring, short tugs on the lead will usually speed him up. Never drag your dog along with a constant pull because he will only fight you. The same is true if your dog wants to move too fast. Generally, you should move your dog on a loose lead in order to show natural, fluid movement.

While gaiting in the show ring, do not crowd the exhibitor in front of you, and do not pass unless it is necessary or unless the judge signals you to do so. If the dog before you is much slower, hold back on your dog when out of the judges eye, creating a gap between you and the preceding exhibitor; then move out at your dogs best pace when in the judges view so he can see your dog at his best.

While gaiting in the ring, try to keep one eye on your dog and the other on the judge so you can see when he is observing your dog and so you are aware if he motions to you.

Do not speak to anyone while in the ring, including the judge, unless he asks you a question. Keep your dog quiet and on his best behavior and dont let him sniff or come in contact with the other show dogs as it may frighten them. Also, never reprimand your dog in the ring. If he misbehaves, take care of it later, but do not cause a scene in the ring, especially in front of the judges.

It is also a good idea to watch the professional dog handlers in action when you can and learn more about different techniques in showing. You can also gain advantage by watching their style and methods.

Showing Your Dog: Training Tips Part 2

Gemma | November 5th, 2005
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Change the lead from the left to the right hand (while maintaining the tension) and begin to adjust the rear legs. Do not let go of the lead or let the head drop out of position or you will most probably find the front will need readjusting again.

In some dogs with very good rears, little or no adjustment will be necessary and if that is the case, great; however, if your dogs rear is out of line, begin by adjusting the left leg and then the right, as with the front.

Theres a greater variation of stances in the hindquarters between breeds. For example, German Shepherds are shown with one rear leg forward and the other back so check your breed photos to see which is correct for your type of breed. However, most are shown with the hind legs parallel and slightly wider spread than the front. The line of the pastern from the hock down should be perpendicular to the ground with toe straight forward.

At this point, your dog should be fairly well stacked in his show pose. Make sure none of the legs have shifted, and then check your dogs topline. In most breeds, the topline should be level or sloping downward towards the tail. Again, check your breeds standard, as some breeds, like the Whippet and Borzoi, require a roach back. If the topline is correct, make sure the tail is in the proper position and that your dogs head is up with an alert and intelligent expression.

As you become more proficient, you will see where you can make further small adjustments to improve the appearance of your dog and minimize his faults while maximizing his strong points. However, that comes much later, after you gain more experience. Make your dog hold this pose for only a few seconds at first while giving the command Stay then offer him lavish praise and reward him.

Practice this several times a day, until after one month or so of practice he will stand for up to five minutes or more without you having to readjust him. Always try to keep these sessions pleasant for both you and your dog and do not be overly critical until he understands what is expected of him.

If you have a puppy, you will have to be especially patient and expect his ability to hold the pose to be much shorter in duration. Your dog must enjoy showing or he will not perform well in the ring. Therefore, try to make it fun and dont forget to reward him with praise and his favorite treats.